Sakartvelo, You will always have my heart

Last week, I returned to Libya for a visit. Being surrounded by a culture similar to Libya's in Qatar, where women face significant limitations in making their own decisions, particularly regarding freedom of movement and travel, was a stark reminder. In Libya, it's common for women to require accompaniment from a male relative, such as a brother or husband, to travel abroad. In Qatar, Qatari women must obtain official approval from their guardian via a government app to leave the country until they reach the age of 35. Moving to Qatar alone as a female was one of the most challenging and courageous steps I've taken in my life. However, an even bolder move was embarking on a leisure trip to Georgia alone, without a "serious" purpose. Being back in Libya has prompted me to reflect on one of my most revolutionary and cherished journeys: my trip to Georgia (or Sakartvelo, as they call themselves).

Georgia:

Georgia, the country not the U.S. state, is nestled at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, in the region known as the Caucasus—or, as the locals refer to it, Caucasia. It shares borders with the Russian republics of Chechnya, Ingushetia, and North Ossetia to the north and northeast, and with Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Turkey to the south. Its western border is formed by the shoreline of the Black Sea.

Covering an area of 26,216 square miles (67,900 square kilometers), Georgia boasts a dramatic and diverse landscape, comprising snow-capped mountains, valleys, glaciers, gorges, volcanic plateaus, hot springs, lakes, forests, subtropical wetlands along the coast, and semi-desert plains in the southeast. It ranks among the world's top twelve countries for geographical diversity. The northern border is defined by the Greater Caucasus mountain range, with peaks soaring to over 16,404 feet (5,000 meters) above sea level, while the southern border is marked by the Lesser Caucasus mountains.

Georgia is blessed with approximately 25,000 rivers, which flow westward into the Black Sea and eastward through Azerbaijan to the Caspian Sea. The most significant of these rivers is the Mtkvari (also known by its Turkish name, Kura), which traverses 847 miles (1,364 kilometers) from northeast Turkey, across the plains of eastern Georgia, through the capital city of Tbilisi, and finally into the Caspian Sea.

The Origin of the Country and Its Name:

For millennia, Georgia has been renowned for winemaking, boasting a diverse array of hundreds of wines today. The Georgians have a creation story explaining how they came to be so blessed:

There was a time when there were no borders, no countries or cities, and people just lived together. Then at some point, God decided to distribute the land among the people and let them build their own states. At first, the Georgians did not receive anything they were having a party and arrived late for the meeting with the Creator. One Georgian (pretty drunk, but still able to manage his manners) approached God and apologized sincerely.

"Sorry, Lord", he said, "please excuse us and give us a little piece of land; we don't need an awful lot."

"There is nothing left", said God, "I have now given away everything on this planet."

"Well, I have to be honest here, Lord", said the man, "We were drinking and we could not have stopped halfway through. We had raised a glass to you, then everyone had to toast and praise you in turn.... it takes time. You know that."

God knew what Georgians were like and was not very surprised, so he gave them what he had intended to keep for himself and then ascended to Heaven.

Georgia, also known as Sakartvelo in Georgian (საქართველო), is called Vrastan (Վրաստան) in Armenian and is referred to as Gurjistan or similar variations in predominantly Muslim nations. In Slavic languages, it's known as Gruziya. The name "Georgia" first appeared in Italian on Pietro Vesconte's mappa mundi in 1320, while early Latin references varied, sometimes using "Jorgia."

Both native and foreign names for the country derive from the central Georgian region of Kartli, historically known as Iberia. These names likely stem from the Persian "gorğān" (گرگان), meaning "land of the wolves," which evolved from the Old Persian "vrkān" (𐎺𐎼𐎣𐎠𐎴). Georgia's official name is simply "Georgia," as stated in its constitution.

A Brief History

Early Georgian History

The kingdom of Colchis emerged in the 11th century BCE along the eastern Black Sea, thriving on smelting and metal casting. Fertile lands and mild climate supported advanced agriculture. Greek trading cities appeared on the coast in the 6th and 5th centuries BCE. After Colchis disintegrated, the successor kingdom of Egrisi lasted until the 7th century CE.

Iberia and Kartli

Historical texts from Plato and Aristotle mention two "Iberias": Spain (Western Iberia) and Kartli (Eastern Iberia). Georgians preserved their name and statehood until Russia annexed them in the 19th century. Traces of this civilization are hard to find due to layers of history. According to Donald Rayfield, Georgian history before the 10th century is mostly legend.

In the 10th century, Bagrat III unified Georgian lands, founding the Kingdom of Georgians. The Bagrationi dynasty believed to descend from King David, ruled until the Russian annexation in the 18th century. They were the longest-ruling dynasty in Europe. The Arabs and Seljuk Turks invaded in the 11th century, but David Agmashenebeli (1073-1125) defeated them, leading to a period of prosperity and expansion.

Queen Tamar (1160-1213) brought Georgia to its medieval height. Erekle II (1720-98) sought Russian protection against Ottoman and Persian threats, leading to Georgia's eventual annexation by Russia in 1801.

20th Century and Soviet Era

During WWII, Georgians played a significant role in the Soviet defense. Post-war, Georgia had a privileged status in the USSR. In the 1960s, a movement for independence emerged, with leaders persecuted. Eduard Shevardnadze, as Foreign Minister, helped reform the Soviet Union, but Georgians sought its collapse. Anti-Soviet protests in 1989 led to independence.

Modern Challenges

Georgia currently struggles to control 20% of its territory, with Russia recognizing South Ossetia and Abkhazia as independent states, seen by Georgia as interference in its affairs.

My experience:

Two aspects made my journey to Georgia truly memorable: timing it during the festive season (from Dec 25th to Jan 12th) and staying at the home of my dear friend Tamari Kochiashvili, fondly known as Tata. 

Arriving in Kutaisi on a rainy night after a 12-hour transit in Turkey, I was relieved to find Tata waiting for me outside the security counter. It was serendipitous that my arrival coincided with the arrival of Tata's sister, setting the stage for a warm family gathering. The warmth of their welcome was indescribable. Tata's mother ensured I was well-fed, treating me to a traditional Supra—a lavish feast accompanied by Georgian party songs. Despite my concerns about being a Muslim who doesn't drink alcohol, Tata had already arranged with her family and friends not to offer me alcohol, a gesture that touched me deeply.

The following day, I explored Kutaisi and met several of Tata's friends. The day after, I ventured to Gudauri, a picturesque city nestled amidst snowy mountains. En route, I encountered two kind strangers—a girl from Russia and a boy from Azerbaijan—who not only shared the ride but also assisted me with my belongings and finding accommodation. In Gudauri, my friend Beka made it his mission to ensure I had an unforgettable experience. We indulged in a variety of Georgian dishes, including Chqmeruli, Adjarian khachapuri, Pkhlovana, Chicken Ojakhuri, and Soko sulgunit. I fell in love with Chqmeruli and relished every moment, from ice skating to watching Christmas movies against a backdrop of snow-covered landscapes.

Throughout my time in Gudauri, the warmth of the people continued to astound me. Beka's friends generously offered us a free skating session, simply because it was my first time. Their kindness left a lasting impression, as did the stunning natural scenery and the camaraderie we shared.

My journey in Georgia was enriched by moments of genuine connection and hospitality, epitomized by Tata's family and friends. As I bid farewell to Gudauri and returned to Kutaisi, I carried with me cherished memories and a deeper appreciation for the warmth and generosity of the Georgian people.

After my delightful time in Gudauri, I returned to Kutaisi to welcome the New Year with Tata. On the day of my arrival, we ventured to the outskirts of the city with Tata's friends, where we enjoyed hot cocoa and ventured to try snails—an unusual culinary experience influenced by Tata's cousin residing in France. Later, we embarked on a shopping trip for family gifts, with Tata taking charge as the eldest.

Back home, we immersed ourselves in the preparations for the Christmas feast and desserts, surrounded by the enchanting glow of the Christmas tree that had been erected before my arrival, casting a magical ambiance over the festivities.

On New Year's Eve, Tata and I treated ourselves to a nail salon visit. During our journey home, I shared with Tata my curiosity about Orthodox Christianity, the predominant religion in Georgia, and expressed a desire to explore the similarities and differences between our faiths. To my surprise, Tata's father had arranged for their family priest to visit us and address my questions. Following our enlightening discussion, the priest offered me a heartfelt comment on living a long life and shared an intriguing piece of information about a North African Amazighi saint named Monica of Hippo.

In a touching moment, Tata's father and the priest expressed their hope to see me become an influential figure, even suggesting I could be the first female president of Libya. We shared laughter as Tata´s father likened me to "David the Builder," a historical figure known for respecting the practices and beliefs of Muslim villages, such as ensuring pigs did not come near these communities, given the prohibition against consuming pork in Islam.

As the clock struck midnight on New Year's Eve, fireworks illuminated the sky, marking the beginning of celebrations. Returning indoors, I was met with a heartwarming surprise: Tata's sister holding a cake while everyone sang birthday carols in honor of my Jan 1st birthday.

Overwhelmed with emotion, I found myself included in the exchange of Christmas gifts, and our festivities extended to Tata's grandmother's house, where I received further gifts and birthday wishes from her aunts, cousins, and friends.

The following day, I had the joy of experiencing street Christmas carols, a vibrant celebration that further enriched my cultural experience in Georgia.

The following day, I traveled to the capital, Tbilisi, where Tata's cousin Nutsa graciously hosted me. Nutsa and I engaged in stimulating late-night intellectual conversations, cementing our bond. I believe Nutsa is a person that I can confidently say is one of a kind and hard to come across often in life. During my stay in Tbilisi, I embarked on a cultural exploration, beginning with visits to two museums: the National Museum, which offered insightful information about early human history, and the Arts Museum, where I encountered captivating artworks that left a lasting impression.

In the evening, I reunited with another dear friend, Nino, who had recently returned from her travels. We gathered at Nino's home on the outskirts of the city for yet another Supra, skillfully prepared by her talented mother. To my surprise, Nino gifted me a heart-shaped golden bracelet, reminiscent of Lana Del Rey's aesthetic—a thoughtful gesture that touched my heart as Lana was the reason Nino and I had connected as friends.

The following day, I embarked on a trip with three stops. First, I visited Uplistsikhe cave town, despite the challenging stairs due to my unfit physique. The ancient caves, churches, and the Mtkvari River provided a fascinating glimpse into Georgia's rich history. Next, I explored Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, visiting his museum built around his childhood home.

The experience was eerie yet enlightening as we delved into the life of this infamous figure. In Gori, I also had the opportunity to visit the Gori fortress and enjoy complimentary Lobiani from a local bakery. Lastly, I visited Mtskheta, the former capital of Georgia, where I marveled at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers and visited the historic Svetitshoveli cathedral, steeped in religious and regal significance.

Upon my return to Tbilisi, I spent the remaining days with Nino, immersing myself in the city's vibrant culture and cuisine. Subsequently, I traveled back to Kutaisi to celebrate Orthodox Christmas on Jan 7th. The night before Christmas day stands out as one of my favorites, spent around the family dining table with Tata's father and brother. Engaging in lively discussions about Georgian and Libyan cultures and politics, we shared insights and perspectives, fostering mutual understanding. By the end of the evening, Tata's father's opinion about Gaddafi had shifted, and we capped off the night by binge-watching traditional dances on YouTube, encapsulating the spirit of cultural exchange and camaraderie. I made a YT playlist of what we watched here.

On my last day, Tata treated me to one of the best chicken Shawarmas I've ever tasted, a delightful surprise after my quest for it in Georgia, where Shawarma is typically made with pork. However, despite my efforts, I unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) couldn’t get on my flight at the airport.

Returning to Tata's house, her father jokingly remarked that they needed to find me a Georgian husband to prevent me from leaving Georgia. Two days later, I departed from Tbilisi after booking another flight. Tata and I were both unwell that day, so Tata's mother kindly escorted me to leave for Tbilisi. She had been a tremendous help throughout my trip, especially during my asthma attack, and she was the last person I hugged in Kutaisi before departing.

Coincidentally, my arrival in Tbilisi coincided with my departure flight. Determined to try Khenkali with beef, a dish usually made with pork, Nino and I embarked on a search. After a long journey, we found a promising spot, only to realize we forgot to request beef-only Khenkali. With little time to spare, we canceled the order and hurried to the airport. After bidding farewell to Nino with a heartfelt hug, I departed, leaving a piece of my heart behind in Georgia. My craving for Khenkali was eventually satisfied at a Georgian restaurant in Qatar.

My favorite aspect

One aspect of Georgian society that deeply impressed me was the significant role women play in various spheres of life. From household affairs to shaping the nation's religious, historical, and political landscape, women have left an indelible mark. Here are three remarkable figures that highlight the influential role of women in Georgian history:

1. St. Nino:

Legend has it that St. Nino arrived in Georgia around 320 AD, where she encountered a society deeply rooted in idol worship. When Queen Nana fell gravely ill, St. Nino's prayers miraculously healed her, prompting the queen to express a desire for Christian baptism. Despite initial resistance from King Mirian and the populace, a pivotal moment during a royal hunt, where the king prayed to St. Nino's God for guidance during darkness, led to his conversion. This event marked the beginning of Christianity's acceptance and eventual dominance in Georgia.

2. King Tamar:

From 1184 to 1213, Georgia was ruled by the formidable King Tamar. Despite being a woman, Tamar's sovereignty was unchallenged, earning her the title of "King of Kings." Under her reign, Georgia experienced unprecedented prosperity and expansion, with Tamar emerging victorious in significant battles that secured the country's territorial integrity. Her strategic prowess and diplomatic finesse extended Georgia's borders from the Greater Caucasus to modern-day Turkey and Azerbaijan, establishing a pan-Caucasian empire.

3. Female Politicians during Georgian Independence:

During the brief period of the First Republic of Georgia (1918-1921), the nation made strides in gender equality, particularly in politics. Georgia became one of the earliest countries to grant women the right to vote, paving the way for their active participation in governance. By 1919, the Legislative Body of Georgia included five women delegates, all members of the ruling Social-Democrat party. Notably, Georgia's independence document was also signed by women, highlighting their crucial role in shaping the nation's destiny. Additionally, Georgia made history by electing the first Muslim woman as a deputy, representing an ethnic minority within the country.

Fun Facts:

1. In 1977, NASA launched Voyager 1 and Voyager 2, unmanned spacecraft intended for Jupiter and Saturn exploration. These probes ventured further into the outer solar system, collecting invaluable data about its gas giants, previously largely unknown. Voyager 1, currently the most distant human-made object from Earth, carries a Golden Record featuring "Chakrulo," a patriotic folk song from Kakhetia.

2. Identifying Family Names:

   - In mountainous Georgian provinces, family names bear distinct suffixes like uri, uli, or -ani.

   - Mingrelians typically have last names ending in ia, -ua, or -va. Notably, figures like Stalin's associate Beria and NBA player Zaza Pachulia have Mingrelian lineage, evident from their family names.

   - Common endings such as -shvili ("child of") and -ze ("son of"), like in Saakashvili and Shevardnadze, are widespread across the country, especially in regions like Kartli, Guria, Imereti, and Kakheti.

3. The Legend of Tbilisi:

   In the early fifth century, King Vakhtang Gorgasali stumbled upon hot springs while hunting near Tbilisi. His falcon caught a pheasant, and both vanished, later discovered boiled in a warm sulfur spring by the king's hunting dogs. Inspired, King Vakhtang decided to establish a new capital, naming it Tbilisi as "tbili" which means warm in Georgian. Thus, Tbilisi's foundation dates back to the fifth century, though it wasn't until the subsequent century that it became the capital, shifting from Mtskheta.

4.  EUROPE OR ASIA?

Zurab Zhvania, Georgia's late prime minister, succinctly captured the nation's identity and foreign policy in a single statement: "I am Georgian therefore I am European." Presently, Georgia aims for closer ties with NATO and sees membership in the EU as a long-term goal. Zhvania emphasized that history shapes both individuals and nations, underscoring Georgia's aspiration to integrate into Europe, a desire molded by its tumultuous past. The Georgian psyche reflects a history marked by continuous conquests and struggles for independence, with adversaries emerging from various directions, including Persians, Arabs, Turks, and Mongols. Among the most formidable invaders were Tamerlane in the late fourteenth century and the Safavid Shah Abbas in the early seventeenth century. These traumatic experiences have led Georgians to associate the Far and Middle East, as well as Asia, with past wars, enemies, and the fear of cultural and religious assimilation.

Two centuries ago, as the Russian Empire expanded into Georgia, Georgians viewed this less as a threat due to their shared Christian beliefs, considering the first treaty with Russia as a substitute for their lost ally, the Byzantine Empire. However, subsequent events dismayed Georgians: in 1811, Russian authorities abolished the independent status of the Georgian Church, prompting outrage. Despite initial hopes for protection, the nineteenth century saw Georgia incorporated into the Russian Empire, followed by Bolshevik invasions and territorial occupation in the twentieth century.

5. The Symbol of Georgia:

Contemporary Georgian painter Eteri Chkadua identifies wine as the quintessential symbol of Georgia, representing hospitality, tradition, and the Georgian way of life. She portrays herself with a kantsi, a traditional drinking horn made from the horns of various animals. The kantsi, cleaned, boiled, polished, and adorned, serves as a durable and stylish vessel, embodying Georgia's historic past. A popular anecdote recounts a diplomatic incident when Georgian delegates presented Italian diplomats with nicely wrapped horns, inadvertently evoking associations with cuckoldry in many cultures. Despite the misunderstanding, Georgians revere the kantsi for its role in special toasts, where drinkers must finish the wine without resting, symbolizing triumph over adversaries.

6. Gori and Joseph Stalin:

For Georgians, the name Gori evokes one figure above all: the birthplace and schooling grounds of Josif Jughashvili, later known as Joseph Stalin. Almost every Georgian is familiar with or has come across, the verse penned by Jughashvili under his pseudonym, Sosela, encapsulating Stalin's pre-revolutionary upbringing. Back then, few could have foreseen that this ordinary Georgian boy would ascend to such global political dominance. Despite the bloodiness associated with his reign, particularly concerning the vast and powerful empire he ruled, some of his compatriots still take pride in his journey from Gori to world leadership. Attempts to discuss Stalin's legacy often lead to uneasy and contentious conversations, as some Georgians argue that the tumultuous times and perceived lack of alternatives justify his actions, while others critique the purges and massacres yet acknowledge his personal qualities, strategic acumen, and ability to survive. Remarkably, discussions about Stalin, and even Hitler, are not taboo in Georgian society; rather, people openly share their perspectives and engage in dialogue, unencumbered by the political correctness commonly observed in Western discourse.

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Embarking on this journey as my first independent, self-funded trip and being graciously hosted at Tata's house has made it incredibly meaningful to me. I believe that Georgia will continue to occupy a cherished corner of my heart, regardless of the other countries I may visit in my lifetime.

Resources:

- First-hand experiences and stories told by Georgians.

-YT

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34XQUzrrpI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxBviP18M3w

-Books

Culture smart! Georgia, Natia Abramia

- Websites

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Names_of_Georgia

https://www.itb.com/en/press/newsroom/news/tamar-king-of-georgia.html

https://egi.ge/en/georgian-women-and-politics/

KM, till next time! <3